![]() ![]() Trigger stop is the little black button on the back of the trigger. One way to do this is to cover the frame with thin tape to protect it, then slip a strip of sand paper between the rod to be shortened and the taped frame - pull back and forth, test, repeat.Ī P229 Nickel I bought used a few months ago. 2" deep hole on the backside of the trigger, press in the rod, then adjust the length. Here's an example of a trigger I've modified to add an overtravel stop made of 1/8" black Delrin rod. Some triggers may use a stop that's adjusted by removing material. Some triggers, as in high end guns, will have additional adjustments for reach and fit etc. Adjusting it easy - turn in the screw until the trigger will not release the hammer in SA mode, the back out the screw so it does just release the hammer, and finally back the screw out 1/4 turn more (or follow instructions).Ī bit more complex is a trigger with both pre-travel and overtravel adjustment - still easy, take your time and adjust pre-travel so trigger will pick up and cock the hammer in DA, then proceed as above for SA. If you back that screw out all the way, the trigger will be a "drop in" and it won't reduce overtravel much, if at all. ![]() It may have a set screw to minimize overtravel. ![]() ![]() The simplest adjustable trigger would be one with overtravel only. Tolerances must be about what the factory trigger provides in order to, um, "drop in". Fitting doesn't necessarily mean difficult, you just need to go slow and not remove more material than necessary.Īn drop in aftermarket trigger with no adjustments, it will seldom do much more than change appearance, reach, or feel against the finger. Fitting being removing material until it fits or functions, adjusting would be tweaking a screw etc. There's a difference between drop in, fitting, and adjusting. ![]()
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